Gruaud-Larose has a special place in my heart, as it was the first classed growth Bordeaux that I drank on a regular basis. In most vintages, Gruaud-Larose rivals the first growths for power and longevity, yet it can be had at a fraction of their price. Until recently, it tended to be a very powerful wine with gobs of fruit and tons of tannin, which typically required -- but also rewarded -- long cellaring. Lately, however, the new owners seem to be striving for a less intense style. Personally, I liked the old style a lot better.
At 18 years of age, this wine is still a deep, inky ruby. The nose is clean and powerful, offering leather, dried fruits, and more than a minor suggestion of a humidor. On the palate, there is still a prominent core of tannins and bright acids. Although it has developed many of the traits of a mature wine, it retains an incredibly impressive youthful vitality. As for the flavor profile, this 1986 Gruaud-Larose suggests olives, prunes, cassis, and pencil shavings. Grade: A
