A reader emails to ask:
I am wondering if a generalization can be made about the difference in tannins in mountain fruit versus valley floor fruit. Any input you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
In my experience, mountain grown red wines can be noticeably more tannic than those grown on a valley floor. Compare a Howell Mountain zinfandel to a zinfandel from the valley floor (say Calistoga). The Howell Mountain likely will be a lot tougher. Ditto with the comparison between, say, a Mount Veeder or Spring Mountain Cabernet and one from the floor near Oakville.
BUT, and this is a very big but, modern winemaking and aging techniques give the winemaker enough control - how the wine is pressed and fermented, choice of barrels, fining, etc... - that a good winemaker has substantial control over the tannin level. As a result, the distinction between mountain and valley wines often is not all that significant these days.




