Over at the Cyberlibris blog, Eric has a
very nice post comparing economist Orley Ashenfelter's econometric
approach to evaluating wine and the gustatory approach of former lawyer
Robert Parker.
Ashenfelter decries what he perceives to be
a sense of elitism in the wine industry: "Writers whose palates we
respect act as if they were able to pick out the qualities in young
wines that will emerge a decade or more from now,". Parker Jr., an
influential wine critic, calls the professor's methods "Neanderthal,"
not to mention "ludicrous and absurd".
...
According to [University of Maryland Law
Professor Garret Power], the conflict between the two men is obviously
tense. However, he thinks that the disagreement between the two men is
in fact a profound professional disagreement between a judge (Parker
was a law student at the University of Maryland) and an economist. For
Power, Robert Parker is a wine judge: "He employs the method of the
common law. He sniffs, sops, and spits his way through a number of
cases each week." New evidence will make him change his mind.
Ashenfelter is undoubtedly a wine economist. To put it again in Power's
words, "he simplifies the world of wine and gauges the quality of a
vintage on the basis of variables that are subject to objective
measurement."
I used to subscribe to both Ashenfelter and
Parker's newsletter; I still subscribe to
Parker's pay web site. As
between the two, I found Parker's tasting notes far more useful; if I
were collecting wine for investment purposes, however, Ashenfelter's
price data and econometric analysis would be very useful. In any event,
my all time tasting triumph came in a seminar given by Ashenfelter: I
correctly identified the vintage and appellation of a wine that turned
out to be a 1973 Latour.