Having survived the first week of my 27th year in law teaching, I decided I deserved a treat Thursday night. So I picked up some filet mignon, baby Yukon Gold potatoes, and (I know it's cheating, so sue me) Knorr Bearnaise Sauce Mix and opened the 2004 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet. It required decanting, both because it had thrown a lot of sediment and because at age 11 it was still an infant that needed to breathe. Deep, inky ruby color. As it sat in the decanter for an hour while I cooked dinner the bouquet perfumed the entire room. Blackberry, blueberry, and cassis on the nose. Black currant, mocha java, blackberries, blueberries, olives, and star anise on the palate. Will age well. Grade: 95